This is the last of the important tasks that needs to be done without any errors. If the rudder tube is installed incorrectly, it causes the rudder not to be true and inline with the keel fin, and the performance of the model yacht will suffer. It is just a simple matter of gluing the rudder tube into the hull so the rudder won't hang crooked.
To start the process, drill the hole in the hull at the point marked earlier so the rudder tube can pass into the hole. Don't make the hole any bigger than needed because if you do the tube will wiggle, and the tube won't be true. The tube should take a small amount of effort to pass through the hole in the hull when inserted.
With that done, what is the best way to make sure the rudder will be straight? It is not as hard as you think. Since the rudder post is at an angle into the hull it will cause a little more effort to do it correctly. The first thing to keep in mind is, that the hull is the first fixed point that the rudder post will go through. For this project, think of it as a pivot point. The next task to do is to create a spot where the end of the rudder post can fit into, to cause the rudder to be straight. For this rudder design the rudder's post will extend up to the aft centerline beam. It is here where the post will be allowed to turn and apply support.
A rudders hull fitting can be easily damaged during the handling of a model yacht. If not built and supported strongly, a simple bump can damage the rudder's seal and the fitting. To avoid this, I use the aft centerline beam as added support to the rudder post. Not only that, by using the aft centerline beam, it makes an effective way to align the rudder so it will be straight!
As you can see in Example 1 and also in Examples 2 and 3, I use a second small piece of wood to do this. I drill a hole into the wood at the same angle of the rudder post. This way the rudder post will fit right into the hole and allow the rudder to turn without any resistance. To add further strength to the small piece of wood, I cut a short length of brass tubing (see Photo 1 above), and glue it into the angled hole, (see Example 1). I had to cut and drill a few small pieces of wood before I got one with correct angle to the rudder post.
Now comes the task of getting the rudder in line with the keel fin. To do this it is a simple matter lining the rudder with the keel fin by eye-balling it. First slip a short length of rudder tube on to the rudder post, and out through the hole in the hull. This will keep the rudder in place at the hull point. Next, to keep the small piece of wood in the correct spot once the alignment is done, use small paper clamps. To do this I clamp the aft centerline beam into place and once I have the rudder straight with the keel fin, I place a clamp to hold the small piece of wood in place. Note: you will have to move the small piece of wood around a little to get the rudder straight. Once I have found the right position for the small piece of wood with the angled, brass tube lined hole, I mark the spot with an ink pen. This may sound like a lot of work, but it is not. The best thing is to practice this several times before actually doing it. When you have got it down, it is time to glue.
You may notice the small piece of wood may not be quite exactly center on the aft centerline beam. That is ok, it is not center because the hull may not be exact, all that matters is the rudder hang straight with the keel fin. My rudder placement at the aft centerline beam was off by 1/16 of an inch, and that is fine. Please note, do not glue in the rudder tube at this time, just the small piece of wood. Recheck your work and if ok glue the small piece of wood in place and let it set for a few hours. The good thing about gluing to a removable aft centerline beam is, if you make a mistake, you can start over with no problems with the hull.
If done right, the rudder will now have two support points, the lowest and highest to make it straight. Now the job of gluing the rudder post to the hull. I like to glue in the rudder post to where there is 1/32 of an inch of the brass tube sticking out past the surface of the hull. Also, I like to glue the tube into a wood dowel, (see Photo 4) for added support and strength. You don't have to if you like. If you do, first glue the brass tube into the wood dowel with the wood dowel sitting on the inside of the hull. You may have to shape the wood dowel to match the shape of the hull. Be sure the brass tube is long enough into the hull so no water can come up the tube and let water inside the hull. Again, before you glue, test and double check your work. Mix up enough Epoxy to do the entire job and let the glue stand for eight hours.
At this point you may or may not want to put in a cross brace, (see Photo 2) to keep the brass rudder tube in place and not move around. The weight of this extra wood won't hurt (it weights next to nothing). For me, I like to do it because it is one more added strong point to protect the rudder tube. Once the rudder tube is glued in, it is hard to replace without damaging the seal.
Also, if you do not want to use the aft centerline beam to hold onto the rudder post, you don't have to. Just trim off the excess rudder post and you are done. Now the steerage arm can slip down on the rudder post, and still have a nice gap between the top of the brass tube and bottom of the centerline beam.
At this time you should start thinking about sails. You can make your own or use ones off a similar boat. I will not go into building sails for this boat. The reason is simple, I can buy good sails for less than $100 that are far better than what I can make, plus I just don't have the time. For both my current 36/600 and Marblehead, I am using sails made by ULTRA SMOOTH SAILS. Mark Mason does a good job and the boats that use his sails are winning!