Before I get started on this issue's article I want to backtrack on the topic of electronics. In the last issue I stated that the Cirrus CS-80 Super-Torque servo is a good choice for a sail winch, but if you are looking a better buy, the Futaba 3802 is something to look into. The Futaba 3802 has 130 tourk pounds and 120 degrees swing which gives it better capacity. Priced at $60.00, it is higher in price than the Cirrus CS-80, but the advantages out weigh the cost. Also note, you can purchase a Futaba package deal from Tower Hobbies which includes the radio, receiver, rudder servo and the 3802 sail winch for $110.00! The Tower Hobbie's Part No. for the package is LC4094.

With the bulkhead in place it is time to start work on the keel mounting tube. The brass keel and rudder tubes which is included in the kit are not the ones you want to install in your Victoria, they are too heavy. Instead, you will want to install light weight carbon fiber tubes that matches the outer and inter diameters of the brass keel and rudder tubes. The outer diameter of the keel tube is: 1/4th inch and inter diameter of the keel tube is 3/8th inch. The outside diameter of the rudder tube is: 1/8th inch. Do understand you may have to sand the outer diameter of the keel tube to fit the hole in the hull's keel slot and deck hole, and you may have to drill out the rudder's tube to allow the rudder's shaft to move freely. Before you start sanding or drilling, check it first and if you have to sand/drill slowly and check often.

The first tube to install is the one for the keel. Cut the keel tube's length so that it is flush with the deck and with the hull's keel slot. This is important, make sure the tube is not protruding into the keel slot when you epoxy it in. If so the keel will not be allowed to fit all of the way in and you don't want that. You want the keel tube to have a snug fit so that you will get a good seal with epoxy. To get the keel tube to fit, do not drill out the hole in the keel slot or deck hole. Doing so you may not drill right and the two holes will be out of alignment. When gluing in the tubes use 30-minute epoxy, it gives you enough time to get the piece installed and adjusted before it starts to set.

Once the keel tube is glued in and allowed to harden, now comes the task of installing the rudder's tube. The reason to install the keel's tube first is because you will be using the keel fin to check or correct alignment of the rudder. There have been some reports that the two stock holes for the rudder (through the hull and deck) are not in alignment. If this is the case for your hull you will have some delicate work to do.

First, you will have to check the rudder's alignment with the keel fin. Install the keel fin and bolt it in so it won't fall out. Next, temporarily install the brass rudder tube and the plastic bushing. Turn the hull over so that the keel fin is pointing up and insert the rudder, and turn the rudder so that it is parallel with the keel fin and sight down the rudder towards the keel fin. If the tip of the rudder is not in alignment then you will have to get it in alignment.

To start, you need to shift to the carbon fiber tube. The first step is to make sure the rudder post will freely insert and turn in the carbon fiber tube. If not I found it best to sand the rudder post with medium sand paper until it fits and turns easily. Once this is done you may have to enlarge the hull's rudder tube hole to accept the carbon fiber tube. If so, carefully do so without making the hole too big. You may also have to enlarge the plastic bushing's rudder tube hole to accept the new tube. Once done, reinstall the keel fin and insert the rudder to see if it is still out of alignment. If it is you will need to compensate the out of alignment by drilling out the hole for the rudder tube.

This tedious process must be done to get good performance. For me, I found it best to epoxy in the plastic bushing, and do my drilling adjustment with it. If the rudder tube's hole in the hull is in direct alignment of the keel and center of the transom, then you're fine. Lucky, mine was.

For my rudder's alignment, I epoxyed the plastic bushing in place and allowed to harden. Next, I cut a longer length (a quarter inch is fine) than needed of carbon fiber tube, inserted the keel fine and rudder, and observed the needed corrections. If the rudder is off to the left, I would ream the tube's hole on the opposite direction. I would do this a little at a time so I would not make the hole too big and make a mistake. I would do this until the rudder blade's tip is in direct alignment with the keel fin. Once complete you would think you are done, not so, you need to check to make sure the rudder's blade base is parallel with the hull. If not ream the plastic bushing to make it so.

Please remember, when reaming the rudder tube's deck hole, d o i t s l o w l y a n d c h e c k i t o f t e n! Once the correction is made, mix white micro balloons in with your epoxy so it will fill the hole space and not make the epoxy too runny. Last you may have to hold the rudder tube in the correct spot until the epoxy sets (this is why the rudder tube is a little longer than needed).

That is it for now. Remember, check and double check your work, and test often so you can avoid mistakes. Next month I'll go over on how to attach the bulb to the keel fin for maximum performance.